Farewell to caisteals, sròn and creagans in Scotland

Our journey in Scotland was one joyful experience after another, ranging from the exploration of caisteals (castles), views of the sròn (promontory of a hill or mountain), and the creagans (or knolls) that mark the landscape, counting the miles on the West Highland Way https://hikescape.org/whw-tyndrum-kingshouse-kinlochleven-fort-william/ and learning from Scots along the way.

Among the many things that stood out for us was the Scottish Outdoor Access Code https://www.outdooraccess-scotland.scot/that gives reasonable access to land and other areas within private domain, as long as one abides by the three main rules:

• respecting the interests of other people
• caring for the environment
• taking responsibility for your own actions

The Scots approach to conservation and tangible appreciation for the environment is spot on.

Ballindalloch Castle

On our final full day in Speyside, I embarked upon a self-guided tour of Ballindalloch Castle, which has thrived through the centuries. In the tradition of Scottish castles, Ballindalloch has seen many additions and renovations. At this point, I wondered how the tour of a currently- occupied castle would differ from what I had already experienced. While I was touring Ballindalloch, Bernie was at the Cragganmore Distillery https://www.tomintoulandglenlivet.com/listings/cragganmore-distillery-visitor-centre/. Who had the better deal? Well, I guess that depends on who you ask!

Ballindalloch was built by the Grant clan in 1546. Ballindalloch lands encompass the confluence of the Rivers Spey and Avon, to form a natural barrier from invading clans.

The recountings of General James Grant, was an interesting historical note; he was appointed Governor of the East Florida settlement in 1763. The Grants were also featured prominently in the Culloden visitor centre. https://www.loc.gov/loc/lcib/0304/papers.html

Later, the Grant-McPherson family discovered written correspondence from General George Washington to General James Grant during the Revolutionary War. In 1777, George Washington assured General Grant that even in defeat, his troops will not be subject to molestation of “money or stores”.

Included in these historical treasure troves was a letter to the Grants from Rob Roy in 1726, discussing the theft of Highlands cattle: https://www.scotsman.com/news-2-15012/rob-roy-and-the-letter-from-america-1-939877. What an incredible gift of history!

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Drumin Castle

Drumin Castle sits on the Glenlivet Estate, which has biking and hiking trails, rivers and scenery galore! https://www.glenlivetestate.co.uk/

Bernie and I had some humorous conversations about my castle ruin explorations, (note: he was drinking scotch) and my perhaps odd fascination with castle life hundreds of years ago. I was excited to crawl into the fireplaces and scope out the perimeter of the castle walls, counting all of the latrine chutes and cubbies. Maybe I missed my life’s vocation….

Do you see the stones used for load bearing floors of the castle, which long since rotted away by time and weather? The entrances give us a glimpse into how people came and went in the castle, and insight on the fortresses built to provide a measure of warmth and protection.

I couldn’t actually get into this fireplace…but look at the stonework!

We took a different trail as we departed Drumin Castle, walking past rock walls located far below the fortifications of the castle.

Literary soul: The Bookmark

The day before we left, I went to The Bookmark in Grantown-on-Spey http://www.thebookmark.co.uk/, a bookstore that packs a literary wallop into a very small, but lively, space. We walked by the shop when we arrived in Grantown, and exchanged pleasantries with the owner and her husband.

The owner, Marjory, was fielding inquiries about book orders for the local book club, while there was conversation about current events. Brexit was a hot topic everywhere we went, and nothing is as interesting as hearing the opinion of those considering the impact on their livelihood. Of course, the Brexit vote occurred after the “nay” vote for Scots independence in the UK- it certainly makes one question the influence of the billion dollar distillery industry.

There is no doubt that I could have spent the better part of the morning in The Bookmark- and if you ask Bernie, he would have likely said that I did indeed spend the morning there! Amidst talk of current events and civility, Marjory commented that bookstores were the birthplace of revolutions. She also lamented that she was facing retirement, and of course, my heart skipped a beat when I asked if her bookstore was for sale- and she said YES.

My desire has always been to own a bookstore, but even I can admit that the fantasy differs greatly from reality. While I would love to spend time curled up reading in bookstore on a cold day in a lovely little town, on most days, I know I would be antsy and pacing to get outside. And of course, lounging about isn’t what bookstore owners actually do. So I abandoned that fleeting dream, and instead purchased five books that I knew I would be unlikely to find in the States.

Leaving Moray and Speyside: Sròn sightings

The next morning as we drove across the countryside, we were captivated by a low-lying mist that reminds me of our beautiful Southern Appalachians. These thermal inversions are produced by cool air trapped beneath warmer air, giving rise to wispy clouds enveloping the hills, teasing us with the vagaries and unpredictability of weather. Then again, there is always the effect of pollutants on thermal inversions. Knowing this was our last full day in Scotland, I was grateful for this view, and alternatively sad, as there was so much more to explore.

While I love the landscape and vistas of the Highlands, it was the people of Scotland that made our journey so memorable. We talked with Scots in bars, restaurants, taxis, gardens, inns, stores, and buses… basically, anywhere we went- and it was wonderful! Our taxi driver who drove us to the Glasgow airport described Scotland as a magical place. I couldn’t agree more!

Scotch, anyone?

Here is Bernie’s substantial purchase of single malt Scotch, which breezed through customs- let’s hear it for good customs vibes! If Bernie was a blogger, you would learn the intricacies of each brand of Scotch, the characteristics of the geographic area that contributes to those flavors and uniqueness of the distilling process.

The last fleeting image of our trip was taken out the window as we flew over Newfoundland. Looking at the cloud formations, I was reminded of the Gaelic caisteals (castles) of Scotland, always imprinted on my memory along with the desire to return.

Thanks for joining us on this adventure. Our journey only scratched the surface of the Western Highlands and the Moray area below Inverness, but I plan to return to Scotland to see the other 3,993 castles and countless walks!