West Highland Way: Milngavie to Rowardennan

Our journey on the West Highland Way in Scotland began with uncertainty. One week prior to our scheduled departure, I was two-thirds into my usual workout, and bent over to lift a weight. I was left breathless from sudden shooting pains in my back. Completing the first day from Milngavie to Drymen seemed doubtful, let alone completing the entire 96.5 mile West Highland Way to Fort William!

Two doctor visits later and fueled by 2 steroid shots the morning of our flight, we were bound for Glasgow via Iceland Air. We were tired but hopeful that my back could withstand the trek. Our stay in Glasgow was lovely, particularly the architecture at the University of Glasgow and their spectacular botanic garden.

Glasgow

Day 1

Our trek began in the village of Milngavie just north of Glasgow, and then 15 miles onward to Drymen. This section meandered through the Scottish lowlands, marked by idyllic pastoral scenes, woods and centuries old stone walls. And the weather- what a gift!

Walking on the John Muir Way was a great celebration and recognition of someone so instrumental in garnering attention and support to obtain, preserve, protect and maintain lands for public use in the United States. https://www.nps.gov/yose/learn/historyculture/muir.htm

The Way was lined with fireweed, a wildflower often seen in the US, particularly the Western States. In Scotland, this species is Great Willowherb (Epilobium hirsutum), rather than Epilobium angustifolium.

We passed by the Glengoyne Distillery, founded in 1833. Of course, it wasn’t until we had already passed that we learned of this gem, but it certainly would have slowed down Bernie’s progress had we stopped for a tour. One of the reasons that I have been able to make the walk is due to Bernie acting as pack mule and carrying everything but my ever-present camera!

We reached Drymen and the comfort of Burnbrae B&B, followed by a rejuvenating dinner at the Clachan Inn just across the way.

Day 2

Day Two’s path wound through Scottish Wood Preserves, and more farmland. We approached Loch Lomond and the path to Conic Hill, dotted by sheep and sporting long range views. Along the way, we met some Welsh hikers who showed us a photo of a wee adder spotted on Conic Hill. I am quite thankful that I missed that encounter.

On our descent from Conic Hill, there were hordes of daywalkers going upwards from the car park, dogs in tow. The Scots we have met continually remark that the weather is unseasonably clear and sunny!

Along Loch Lomond

We walked on flat ground on the banks of Loch Lomond, interspersed with a few brief climbs. Along the way, we began composing haiku, inspired by our trampIng experiences in New Zealand with our daughter. She introduced us to the movie “In Search of the Wilderpeople” . If you haven’t seen this film, put this on your list. The main character, 13 year old Ricky Baker, is in the Kiwi foster care system and has the endearing habit of composing haiku to describe his experiences. While my haiku abilities may not be endearing, it passes the time when walking and observing nature. Bernie excels in bawdy haiku, taking the view of nature in haiku to its most basic level.

“And so it begins; On the great West Highland Way; souls walk with nature”

The landscape was littered with Devils Bit Scabious, similar to those found in the US. This hearty plant, along with heath and thistle, are among the few surviving blooms found as we move northwards. History abounds everywhere on the West Highland Way.

The Scottish Highlands

We arrived at the Rowardennan Hotel on Loch Lomond, one of the few lodging spots outside of rough camping. A shower, libations and dinner were most welcomed. Day 3 is well known as the most physically demanding section of the walk. I hope you will join us on our path to Fort William!