WHW: Tyndrum-Kingshouse-Kinlochleven-Fort William

These last few days cover more of the idyllic beauty of the West Highlands Way, exploring 41 miles between Tyndrum and Kingshouse, on to Kinlochleven and winding up in Fort William.

Day 5: Tyndrum to Kingshouse

This was our longest day- 18.5 miles across glens and Rannoch Moor. The terrain ascends and descends slowly, and it is only the distance, and the uneven path, that presents a challenge. The panoramic views might cause your heart to skip a beat, however. The weather has been beyond our expectations- sunny, highs in the mid 60’s, and thus far, we’ve only had one day with precipitation. https://hikescape.org/whw-rowardennan-to-tyndrum-day-3-4/

The first leg of the day is 6.5 miles to Bridge of Orchy, where there is a Hotel and cafe. This is a perfect stop to fuel up with hot chocolate for the long walk to Kingshouse.

This cairn commemorates Peter Fleming, brother of novelist Ian Fleming. Our cab driver, who shuttled us to a B and B in Crianlarich, told us that the Fleming family has an estate near there.

This section provides sweeping vistas of the Black Mounts and the walk sometimes intersects with military roads constructed in the 1740’s.

Day 6: Kingshouse to Kinlochleven

The next morning came too soon, but it was another spectacular day with deep blue skies and long range views. The Kings House Hotel was a welcome respite and I would have welcomed more time there for rejuvenation. Our day 6 mileage was only 8.75 miles to Kinlochleven.

This portion of the walk included the Devil’s Staircase, winding up over the highest point on the West Highlands Way- a mere 1798 feet. The other side proved a bit trickier than the uphill due to loose rocks.

Outside of Kinlochleven, Bernie heard red stag roaring and spotted this handsome fellow about 250 yards away, just hanging out on a hillside.

Day 7: Kinlochleven to Fort William

Kinlochleven is a small town that benefits from the West Highlands Way traffic and other outdoor events. The day we arrived, the Skyline Glen Coe ultramarathon, 52k, had just concluded. https://www.runultra.co.uk/Events/Glen-Coe-Skyline

Due to the race, we were booked in a B and B in the nearby village of Ballachulish, where we sat in the bar to eat; the food was delicious, but the company was even better. Fueled by the welcoming spirit of Scotland and single malt scotch, we drank and laughed with Jon, Greg and their mates, many of whom are shinty players. We had a great time and invited them to visit us in the States. Jon remarked that Bernie reminded him of John Malkovich and it was “game on” for the two Johns the rest of the night!

The next morning, we headed out on the last day, with 15 miles ahead and a good chance of rain in the afternoon.

The clouds began rolling in as we approached the ruins at Lairig Mor. We quickly donned our rain gear.

The rain and wind picked up, and as Bernie described, we soldiered on. I packed up my camera. The landscape was still beautiful, but a bit less enjoyable for the next 5 miles. Finally, we began to see blue skies and the rain tapered off. We walked through a forest restoration area at the foot of Ben Nevis, the highest peak in the UK at 4409 feet.

The WHW ends at the town square of Fort William. To be honest, the last few miles don’t compare to the spectacular beauty found elsewhere on the walk. I was hoping for rainbows and maybe some unicorns trotting about….instead, we were greeted by the statute of a walker rubbing his bare foot!

All in all, the West Highlands Way was an incredible way to experience the beauty and history of Scotland, and to connect with others along the way. The weather was not what we expected- we were prepared for rain and cooler temperatures- but I am not complaining!

Will I be returning to Scotland? I can hardly wait! It is scenic, historic and welcoming- an unbeatable combination. Plus it doesn’t require endless hours in flight to get here.

Thanks for coming along on our adventure. In the next few days, we’ll be roaming the countryside for castles, gardens and scotch.